Ayutthaya was the capital of the Kingdom of Siam for 417 years (1350-1767) and at its 17th-century peak was one of the largest and most cosmopolitan cities in the world, home to 1 million people — bigger than London or Paris at the time. French, Portuguese, Dutch, Persian, Japanese, and Chinese trading communities lived in dedicated quarters. Then in April 1767, Burmese armies sacked the city, burned the wooden palaces, decapitated the Buddha statues, and the Thai capital moved south to Thonburi (and later Bangkok). Today the ruins form Ayutthaya Historical Park — a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1991 — and the country's most accessible major archaeological wonder. ## Getting There Ayutthaya is 80 km north of Bangkok. Options: ### Minivan (cheapest + fastest) - **From:** Mo Chit Northern Bus Terminal or Future Park Rangsit - **Cost:** 60-80 THB - **Time:** 90 minutes - **Frequency:** every 30 minutes 06:00-18:00 - **Best for:** budget travelers, flexible schedule ### Train (most atmospheric) - **From:** Hua Lamphong (Bangkok main station) - **Cost:** 15-345 THB (3rd-1st class) - **Time:** 90 min - 2 hr - **Frequency:** dozens daily - **Best for:** train romance, locals' experience. 3rd class with fans = cheap; better get 2nd class with AC. ### River Cruise (most scenic) - **Cost:** 2500-5500 THB including lunch + return by bus - **Time:** 8-10 hours total - **Operators:** Grand Pearl Cruise, Mekhala Cruise, Manohra Cruise - **Best for:** relaxed luxury experience. Sail past wats and Royal Barge Museum. ### Day Tour Package (easiest) - **Cost:** 1500-3000 THB - **Includes:** transport, English guide, 4-5 temples, lunch, optional elephant ride (SKIP THE ELEPHANT — see below) - **Time:** 9-10 hours - **Best for:** first-time visitors who want hassle-free ### Self-Drive - **Highway 1 (Phahon Yothin)** — 80 km, 90 min in good traffic. - **Tolls:** 70 THB. - **Parking:** free at most temples. - **Best for:** independent travelers, families. ## Getting Around Ayutthaya The historical park covers about 4 km². You need transport once you arrive: - **Bicycle:** 40-60 THB/day, rented at every guesthouse. The best option in cool months (Nov-Feb). - **Tuk-tuk:** 200-400 THB for 4-hour temple circuit with driver waiting at each. - **Scooter:** 200-300 THB/day. Carry passport for police checks. - **Walking:** possible but tiring in heat. 12-15 km total to see main sites. ## The Essential Temples (in optimal order) ### 1. Wat Mahathat — The Buddha Head in Tree Roots **Entry:** 50 THB **Time:** 45 min The most photographed image in Ayutthaya: a stone Buddha head entwined in the roots of a Bodhi tree. Theory: when temple was sacked and Buddha decapitated by Burmese, the head was discarded and over centuries the tree grew around it. Don't pose with your head higher than the Buddha (illegal disrespect). The temple complex itself is impressive — central prang ruins, rows of headless Buddha statues, brick chedi tops emerging from rubble. ### 2. Wat Ratchaburana **Entry:** 50 THB (or combo ticket) **Time:** 30-45 min Across the street from Wat Mahathat. The 38-meter Khmer-style central prang dates to 1424 and is one of the best-preserved examples in Ayutthaya. You can climb up via internal stone steps to see the inner chamber (originally containing royal treasures; now empty since the 1957 theft). ### 3. Wat Phra Si Sanphet **Entry:** 50 THB **Time:** 45 min The holiest temple of the royal palace complex. Three iconic Sri Lankan-style chedis (1492-1530) contain ashes of three Ayutthaya kings: Borommatrailokkanat, Ramathibodi II, and Borommarachathirat III. The chedis are the postcard image of Ayutthaya. ### 4. Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit **Entry:** Free **Time:** 15-20 min Adjacent to Wat Phra Si Sanphet. A working temple housing one of Thailand's largest bronze Buddha statues (12.5m, 17m with base) — destroyed in 1767, restored 1957. The hall is impressive; the giant gold Buddha is a striking change from the ruins outside. ### 5. Wat Chaiwatthanaram **Entry:** 50 THB **Time:** 45-60 min Located across the Chao Phraya River from the main park (5-min drive). Built 1630 in Khmer style with central prang surrounded by 8 smaller prangs. The most photogenic at sunset — golden light bouncing off the brick. ### 6. Wat Lokayasutharam **Entry:** Free **Time:** 15 min A 40-meter reclining Buddha statue under the open sky. The robes are draped in saffron cloth; locals offer flowers and incense. Less crowded than the main temples. ### 7. Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon **Entry:** 20 THB **Time:** 30-45 min Outside the main historical park (3 km southeast). Iconic for its 60-meter chedi flanked by rows of saffron-robed Buddha statues. Climb to the top of the chedi for the best Ayutthaya panorama. ## Combo Ticket 220 THB gets you entry to 6 main temples (Wat Mahathat, Wat Ratchaburana, Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Chai Watthanaram, Wat Phra Ram, Wat Maheyong). Buy at the first temple visited. ## When to Visit - **November-February:** cool/dry, 22-30°C. Best. - **March-April:** hot (35-40°C). Plan visits 07:00-10:00 and 16:00-18:00. - **May-October:** rainy, occasional flooding. **Best time of day:** 08:00-11:00 (cool, photo light, few tour buses) and 16:00-18:30 (sunset light). ## Lunch Stops - **Roti Sai Mai** — Ayutthaya's local sweet, pancake-thin roti wrapped around colored cotton-candy sugar. Try at Khun Yai or Pa Lek. - **Lung Lek** — boat noodles since 1944, locals' favorite. - **Bann Kun Pra** — Thai dishes on riverside. - **Malakor Cafe** — coffee + cake stop. ## What to SKIP - **Elephant rides** (offered at multiple points near the park). The elephants are abused — broken via the "phajaan" crushing ritual. Do not support. - **Bang Pa-In Royal Palace** (15 km south) — extra entry fee, less rewarding than the historical park if time is short. ## What's Worth Adding (if you have 2 days) ### Bang Pa-In Royal Palace Summer residence of the Thai royal family since 1632. Mix of Thai, Chinese, and European architectural styles. 100 THB entry. 30-min drive from Ayutthaya. ### Floating Markets **Ayothaya Floating Market** — touristy but visually fun. 200 THB entry includes shows. ### Night Market **Ayutthaya Night Market** (Wat Mahathat area, 17:00-22:00) — local street food. Try roti sai mai (sugar pancakes), kuay teow boat noodles. ## Where to Stay (if overnight) - **Sala Ayutthaya** ($120) — riverside boutique facing Wat Phutthaisawan. - **Iudia on the River** ($140) — colonial design hotel. - **Baan Tye Wang Guesthouse** ($35) — backpacker classic. - **Krungsri River Hotel** ($60) — mid-range, central. ## Photography Tips - **Wat Mahathat Buddha head** — get down low, Buddha at face level (showing respect AND best angle). - **Wat Phra Si Sanphet chedis** — wide angle, golden hour (16:30-17:30 in Nov). - **Wat Chai Watthanaram** — sunset golden light. Bring tripod for HDR. - **Local Thai person in foreground** — adds scale, ask permission first. ## Costs (Day Trip Total) - Minivan + temple entries + bike + lunch + tuk-tuk: ~600 THB ($17) - Day tour package all-inclusive: 1500-3000 THB ($42-85) - Private driver from Bangkok: 3000-4500 THB ($85-130) ## Ayutthaya After Dark Many of the main temples are floodlit after sunset (18:30-22:00 typically). Wat Ratchaburana and Wat Mahathat glow dramatically. Rent a bicycle in the evening for a magical (and crowd-free) sunset/twilight ride. This is when Ayutthaya feels most ghostly. ## How Long? - **Half day:** rushed but possible. Pick 4 essential temples. - **Full day:** ideal. Cover 6-7 temples with proper lunch. - **2 days:** complete experience — historical park + Bang Pa-In + boat ride. Ayutthaya is one of Thailand's three UNESCO archaeological sites (with Sukhothai and Ban Chiang). Of the three, Ayutthaya is by far the easiest day trip — and a powerful reminder that Bangkok wasn't always the capital.